Of all the plants I’ve attempted to grow, none have caused me as much grief, frustration, elation and wonder as the orchid. I finally came to the conclusion that orchids are just like all other plants. They have needs: light, water, nutrition, and space and as long as those needs are met, they can grow quite well.
Most species and hybrids of orchids will grow and produce flowers in any type of potting media and pot if you adjust your fertilizer and watering practices. Osmunda fiber and peat have the greatest water holding capacity, so plants grown in these media need to be watered less frequently than those grown in coarser media such as tree fern, stone, charcoal and bark.
As a general rule, cattleyas, oncidiums, dendrobiums and epidendrums need to be repotted every two to three years. This can be done by transplanting to a larger pot or by division. When repotting these types of orchids, count from the new growth back to four pseudobulbs, cut the rhizome, and remove the clump. This "lead division" will flower within a year after repotting.
Using water‐soluble fertilizers is a convenient way to feed your orchids. Choose fertilizers with a 1:1:1 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium if the orchids are growing in osmunda, tree fern, charcoal, stone or peat. Apply at a rate of 1.5 teaspoons per gallon of water. Plants grown in bark should be fertilized with a 3:1:1 ratio fertilizer at the same rate. Apply soluble fertilizers at monthly intervals.
Slow‐release type fertilizers, such as Osmocote, MagAmp, and Pro‐Gro, release nutrients very slowly, depending on temperature. While they might be more expensive that water‐soluble products, one application may last as long as three months, and your orchids will continuously receive food during that time. Osmocote 14‐14‐14 should be applied at rates of 1 teaspoon per 6‐inch pot every two to three months.
Most orchids require partial shade for optimum growth and flowering. Too much light can degrade chlorophyll in the leaves, causing the foliage to yellow. As much as 70% to 80% shade is recommended for many varieties of Cattleya , Dendoribium , Oncidium , Vanda and Epidendrum. Phalaenopsis, however, thrives in only 10% to 15% sun. Phalaenopsis leaves burn easily when subjected to high light intensities, so they should be protected at all times.
Orchids need to be protected from cooler temperatures, and 50°F is often considered the minimum temperature to which tropical orchids can be subjected without damage. Phalaenopsis and Vanda prefer night temperatures of 65‐70°F, while Cattleya , Epidendrum, Oncidium and Dendrobium grow best with night temperatures between 60‐65°F. If orchids are grown in a greenhouse, leaves and flowers will burn if exposed to temperatures of 110°F for two hours or 120°F for ten minutes.
There are several genera of orchids available to the Florida gardener, but six in particular are well known for their adaptability, ease of growing, and beautiful blooms.
Cattleya
Cattleyas are the most popular and widely grown orchids in Florida because of their flashy flowers and longevity. Certain cultivars produce clusters of twenty, three‐inch flowers per inflorescence, while others bear flowers as large as seven inches, in clusters of four or five. Size, age, and health of plants all determine the number of flower clusters produced. Cattleyas usually flower
only once a year and the blooms last for six weeks.
Cattleya labiata
Phalaenopsis
Also known as the “moth orchid,” Phalaenopsis is a great orchid for even the most basic gardener. It does well in Florida’s warm, humid summers by producing long, leathery leaves. In winter and early spring, plants will bear inflorescences of ten to twenty flowers that last for four to five weeks. It is possible to induce continuousflowers with proper care and pruning of the old flower spikes.
Phalaenopsis hybrid
Dendrobium
This genus of orchid is large and diverse, with many species and hybrids being cultivated in the state. Flowersare typically produced in the fall and winter, where they open gradually and last for a month.
Dendrobium kingianum
Oncidium
Probably my favorite of all orchids, Oncidiums are much daintier than the larger Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium. Often referred to a “dancing ladies,” the yellow and brown or white and brown flowers bloom profusely at various times of the year. This orchid will perform beyond your wildest dreams if cared for, but will flower even under adverse growing conditions. Place Oncidiums outdoors, in a Florida room, or on a windowsill.
Oncidium excavatum
Vanda
During the warm months, Vandas produce racemes of twelve or more flowers. The flowers vary in size and color, offering a wide array of beautiful blooms. These large orchids often outgrow a homeowner’s greenhouse, but they do quite well growing in tree crotches or in open baskets that allow their aerial roots free access to moisture and nutrients from the air. Vandas like bright, but indirect light, so don’t tuck them away in too much shade.
Vanda pachara delight
Epidendrum
Sometimes called the poor man's orchid, Epidendrum is one of the most prolific groups and one of the easiest orchids to grow. The tall, thin, reed‐like growths constantly put forth new plantlets. They are free flowering and the colors range from white to yellow, pink, orange and purple, and all shades in‐between. Many species have fragrant flowers.
Epidendrum nocturnum
After flowering, the spike may be left on the plant, and it will generally flower again in a few months. The spike is also prone to producing a keikis (baby plant) after flowering. Once these keikis develop their own 2‐ to 4‐ inch‐long roots, they can be detached and planted individually.
With the right care, orchids can certainly be a joy if not an addiction! The information presented here, however, are only general guidelines to caring for orchids. Each type has its own specific requirements. For best results, do your research, learn the particulars of each orchid, and enjoy!
Adapted from ENH33, Tips on Growing Orchids in Florida, by Dr. Robert Black, University of Florida IFAS by Marina D'Abreau. Photography courtesy of Wikipedia
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