For those of you who attended the South Shore Library's Master Gardener Talk on "To Prune or Not To Prune", the link that was given for what to do after a freeze is;

After The Freeze

If you didn't attend, the link above has some good information provided by the University of Florida.  The talk was great and hopefully we'll see you next time.

I have Crabgrass.  There I said it.  It's a confession that I've been meaning to make and just haven't.  I used many excuses in avoiding the topic including "It actually looks better than the St. Augustine" and "I've been meaning to make a bed out of that corner anyway".  Since both of those statements were true the denial of a very real problem was easier to swallow.  The trouble with Crabgrass is that it doesn't stay "in the corner" nor does it look better than the St. Augustine for long (not that I'm a fan of St. Augustine), it grows tall and spits out lots of seeds.  And as you may have read in another Gardeners' post "Crabgrass In My Yard" it's not easy to get rid of.

Even though Crabgrass is supposed to be an annual, mine wasn't doing any sort of dying out.  In fact as my St Augustine lawn started to go into hibernation for the winter months, the Crabgrass used the opportunity to expand it's holdings.  It's insidious stuff, I'm telling you.  That is until... THE LONG WINTER!  OK, so in Florida the long winter was a week where the temperature didn't get above 40 Fahrenheit but for us that was cold.

Take a look at what the frost and week long chill did to my Crabgrass.  You can tell which is the dead Crabgrass and which is the dead grass because of the bright yellow color of the Crabgrass, the dead St Augustine has a 'dimmer' yellow color.  What's even more astounding is just how far the Crabgrass had managed to get inside my lawn.

I know this was only a temporary reprieve and that come spring I'll have to tangle with this stuff again because of all the seeds at least I know that this lot is dead and the next generation will have to start again.

Through most of the South East US the temperatures have started an upward trend from the lows of last week's winter blast.  Like most, our garden is not looking its best.  It's a bit of an emotional roller-coaster to have worked 11 or 12 months on getting it just the way you want and (seemingly) lose it all in one week.  But such is the life of a gardener.  Besides, watching the garden wake up in the spring is probably my favorite part of gardening!

With this warm up you're probably starting to see some of your plants struggling to put on new growth (something I'm personally trying to stop on my own waistline).  Or as one of subscribers put it, "The broad-leaf weeds are recovering fine".  It's very tempting to reach out and help this new growth by pruning all the frost damage, giving the new growth room and energy.  DON'T DO IT!!!  Even in Florida, it is very likely we're not done with freezes yet.  It may seem like spring out there right now, but it's not.  If the winter so far is any indication we'll have at least one more freeze before we can begin to clean up our garden.  If you've started to encourage new growth on your plants before that frost comes you'll be putting that new growth and the plants overall health at risk.  The dead parts of your plant act as an inhibitor to new growth preventing them from exposing themselves to further damage until spring truly begins.

Here is a list of things you can do while you wait for spring:

• Prune deciduous trees and shrubs - These plants went into hibernation before the cold got here and won't wake up until spring so pruning will actually help them when Spring does arrive.
• Refresh your mulch - Now that it's cooler outside it's a good time to do the labor intensive tasks before the swelter of summer arrives.  Refreshing your mulch has the added benefit of curtailing weed growth now and when Spring gets here.
• Apply pre-emergents - If you want to try and stop weeds in your lawn before they appear now is the time to apply some pre-emergent weed kill.

I hope this helps you resist the urge to prune just a little longer!

Last night, there came a frost, which has done great damage to my garden.... It is sad that Nature will play such tricks on us poor mortals, inviting us with sunny smiles to confide in her, and then, when we are entirely within her power, striking us to the heart.
Nathaniel Hawthorne

This spring I made a prediction that we'd have a wet summer.  Little did I know that it would also be a wet and very cold winter.  Last night (January 5th/6th) the Tampa Florida area had a record low of 27 degrees Fahrenheit.  For those of you further north you're probably laughing at our misery, after all if this weather lasts a week it's a LONG time.  With any luck we'll be back in the 60's mid January, then we'll see who's laughing!

While this kind of weather for this long is unusual for Florida, it's not totally unheard of to get the occasional freeze.  That occasional freeze can do a lot of damage to your garden.  There are two distinct approaches to dealing with the occasional cold snap.  I'll call the first "Parental" and the second "Darwinian".

I call the first "Parental" because it's a protective approach.  Much like a parent, the "Parental" gardener wants to protect their favorite plants from things that may harm them.  This may include activities like:  apply general pesticides, hand watering frequently, and fertilizing weekly.  When it comes to cold weather, these "Parental" gardeners take action!  Some of the techniques used to protect plants from the cold include:

1. Moving the plant - putting it in the garage for instance or even in the house.
2. Covering the plant - we've seen plastic, sheets, and tarps covering various plants in our neighborhood.
3. Icing the plant - This is the one you hear most about when Florida gets hit with cold weather as the orange and strawberry farmers use the technique to save their crops.
4. Heating the plant - I've actually seen people turn on their Christmas lights to help generate enough heat to keep the plant from getting 'bitten'.

The other kind of gardener can be called "Darwinian", or to put it simpler "Survival of the fittest".  While his neighbors are outside bundled up against the cold trying to tie down their covers (sheets, tarps, etc.), this gardener is inside his warm house with slippers and an adult beverage writing about his neighbors' "Parental" gardening antics.  He believes his plants are bred to live in Florida with all it's little intricacies including "It's too warm" AND "It's too cold".  And those that don't survive the temperatures have just made room for their replacement.

I think you can probably guess what kind of gardener I am this year.  If not, I'll give you a hint; I'm NOT bundled up outside trying to weigh down my sheets! 

Cold Weather Tips for Your Plants – Before, During, and After
Florida is a great state in which to live; you can wear shorts, eat ice cream, and enjoy the great outdoors year-round. You can also grow plants all year long, provided you watch the weather reports and prepare for the occasional cold snap that may happen this time of year. Unfortunately, those beautiful tropical’s and sub-tropical’s that everyone loves to plant are susceptible to cold damage, so it’s necessary to know the right and the wrong ways to not only protect plants from the cold, but care for them afterwards if they do get cold damage.

Life Imitating Art… or is that Flora?
A common trend of most Floridians is the combination of wearing shorts with a sweater or jacket when it starts to get cooler. Nevertheless, this fashion faux pas makes for a great comparison of how plants may feel when the temperature starts to drop. By maintaining a 3” layer of mulch over the soil in your landscaped beds, the roots of plants may not notice the cool weather as much as their above-ground counterparts, the leaves and stems, which need to be protected from, heat loss. Most plant damage can be minimized by reducing radiant heat loss from the plant and the soil surface. It’s important to stock up on sheets, freeze cloth, and light blankets to cover any cold sensitive plants you may want to protect. Be sure to cover plants all the way to the ground to trap enough heat to last throughout the night, and remember to remove the coverings when temperatures rise above freezing. Another common observation is that Floridians carrying a few extra pounds around their waistlines don’t “feel” the cold the way others might. Plants that are well-fed (healthy) – in the form of water and proper nutrients (fertilizer) – throughout the year tend to survive lower temperatures and recover faster from cold injury. Keep in mind that plants are still growing during winter months, but at a slower rate, so you still need to maintain a proper schedule and rate of fertilization and watering.

While a cool breeze is a welcome relief at the height of a steamy Florida summer, it can cause even the most seasoned Floridian to hunker down and cringe when it’s cold outside. Windbreaks may offer a great deal of protection to plants in hard freezes that are accompanied by wind. Consider the placement of plants in your yard in relation to outdoor structures, tree canopies, and walls of your house; survival may depend on as little as six feet and a fence. If possible, gather up all your potted plants and place them close together before covering them up to reduce heat loss from container side walls. Placing a light bulb or string of Christmas lights under the cover will provide some additional heat.

Haute Horticulture versus Real Life
A common practice in commercial farms in anticipation of freezing temperatures is to run the irrigation system to wet the plants so that the continuous freezing of water on the plants and the resulting release of heat keeps plant cells at a temperature just above freezing. This can only work with a continuous flow of copious amounts of water, and residential sprinkler systems are not capable of doing this successfully. So while the agricultural industry can utilize this behavior to save millions of dollars in crops, the only results for the typical homeowner are lots of water waste, a potentially exorbitant water bill, and the risk of greater damage to plants than if nothing was done at all.

The Morning After… It’s Just a Waiting Game
Depending on the severity of the freeze and the specific plants in your yard, it may be necessary to do a botanical triage to assess the best recovery plan for your landscape. The most important first step is to check your plants’ water needs after a freeze. If the sun is shining, leaves may be losing water to transpiration, but the water in the soil may still be frozen and unavailable to the plants. Water plants to thaw the soil and replace the water being lost through the leaves. The typical reaction of most Floridians after a freeze is to hack off all the freeze‐damaged limbs the next day, but keep in mind that the weather in our fair state is about as finicky as our voting machines. Keeping some of that dead or dying material on the plant during a successive freeze will help to protect the undamaged parts if/when the next unseasonable freeze rears its ugly head. Severe pruning should be delayed until new growth appears and there is no longer a risk of freeze. Don’t try to save damaged annuals or vegetables; they’re inexpensive and easy to replace. Damaged areas of turf will return as the weather warms up enough to promote new growth. Most perennials will die back to the ground, but there is a good chance that new growth will start up from the roots.

The best advice I can offer when it comes to cold weather and your landscape is this:

Prepare well with proper plant choices and cultural practices; stock up on protective cloths to help plants ride out the storm; and exhibit pruning patience while waiting for warmer days and new growth.

Florida offers the perfect conditions for many types of grasses and ground covers, but in the never-ending attempt to create the perfect lawn, all too often many other great ground covers are overlooked or ignored.

There are many benefits to a healthy lawn, including atmospheric cooling and oxygen production. From a practical perspective, no other plant can withstand as much foot traffic as turf.

But many people spend a lot of blood, sweat, tears and money to have those sweeping, well-manicured green lawns. The “perfect” lawn requires energy intensive mowing, regular fertilization, irrigation, and, at times, expensive pest and disease control. This translates into four times the energy costs compared to a landscape that only uses turf in small, functional areas and low maintenance vegetation elsewhere.

One of the biggest complaints about turf is its inability to grow in shady areas. Even the most shade tolerant varieties requires at least four to six hours of sunlight each day. If there are patches of bare dirt under trees where turf does not perform well, there are the additional consequences of soil erosion and runoff pollution if the area remains exposed. There are many other available ground covers that require a fraction of the upkeep and are more adaptable to a wider range of environmental conditions.

A ground cover is any low-growing plant that can be used to cover an area in the landscape. And as part of having a passive, energy-saving landscaping, ground covers can provide a surprising amount of residential energy savings during Florida's months of high temperatures.

The average length of time for most ground covers to become established in the landscape is two years, but some, more aggressive species may take less time. During this period, a regular program of irrigation, fertilization and weed control ensures strong, rapid growth.

A three inch layer of mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil and make it more readily available to new plantings. Mulch also helps the spread of ground covers that root along their stems. Once established, many ground covers need only an occasional trimming to keep them tidy and within their designated area.

The following are a list of great Florida-friendly ground covers that can add some pizzazz to the landscape, while filling in those hard-to-plant areas in your yard. All of these can grow in zones 8 through 11, which covers the length of the State.

Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) is a fast grower adapted to any type of Florida soil and pH, although it’s not very salt tolerant. It produces purple/blue flowers from spring through summer. Although this plant performs best in partial shade, bugleweed will grow in full sun or shade. It has medium drought tolerance, so a consistent irrigation schedule is recommended. It is susceptible to southern blight and crown rot in soggy soils, so make sure it is planted in an area with good drainage.

 Bugleweed 

Caladiums (Caladium x hortulanum) provide fantastic perennial color – including red, rose, pink, white, silver, bronze, and green – in the sun or shade. Leaves die back naturally in cold weather but will return in the spring. There are many traditional as well as new varieties available in retail nurseries. They work well in mass groupings under trees or as borders along sidewalks and pathways.

The cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) is as hardy as its name suggests. Although a slow grower, it can tolerate deep shade better than most plants as well as a wide range of soil types and pH. Cast iron plants will grow to a maximum height of 3 feet, but will typically stay much shorter. Certain varieties will offer some spotting or striping on the leaves, but in general, this plant is a wonderful choice for a deep green addition to a shady area in your yard.

Ferns are well-known plants for shady areas, but holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum) will grow in full sun as well. It will tolerate dry to moist soils, but will not tolerate long periods without rain or supplemental irrigation. It has a medium growth rate and will spread three to four feet per plant. Holly ferns are relatively pest free plants, but keep an eye out for scales, mites, mealybugs, snails and slugs. It is not salt tolerant.

 Holly Fern

The autumn fern (Dryopteris spp.) is built for shady spots with well-drained, acidic soils. A native Florida plant that grows slowly, this fern will do well in the landscape once established. It is also a great plant to use for cut foliage in floral arrangements.

Also known as dwarf lilyturf or dwarf liriope, mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) is a hardy, albeit slow-growing, ground cover for shady areas. It has medium salt tolerance, so it may do better in coastal areas that most of the other ground covers mentioned here.

Dwarf varieties (see photo) do well as “fillers” in- between stepping stones in the landscape.

Mondo Grass

Now that your interest in ground covers has been tickled, the following table* lists a few more ground covers that do well in certain parts of the state.

• Information for this table excerpted from University of Florida IFAS Extension Publications EES37, EES38, and EES39, Enviroscaping to Conserve Energy: Ground Covers.

For additional suggestions of ground covers specific for central Florida, try out the Florida-friendly searchable plant database on http://FloridaYards.org or visit http://SolutionsForYourLife.com, keyword: ground covers.

Here is another article by Dr. Marina D'Abreau when she joins us at GardenersReach.com in future her 'Pen Name' will be HC_Greenthumb, this is her Hillsborough County Extension Horticulture Site!  Why not pay the site a visit and check out the resources available there.

Part of the magnetism of gardening is the opportunity for creative expression. Why bother with the same boring terra cotta pot or hanging basket when you can grow mother-in-law’s tongue out of an old toilet or a medley of herbs in a discarded wooden crate? Okay, so maybe you’re not too keen on showcasing your prized fern collection in a gleaming white porcelain throne, but consider creative container gardening as an opportunity to spice up your landscape and get those creative juices flowing! By definition, container gardening refers to large containers planted with a mixture of plants, and they serve as focal points by elevating plants and making them more prominent in the landscape than a similar grouping of plants at ground level. It is necessary to consider the right plant for the right place when picking plants for your containers, same as you would do in the garden. Be sure to choose plants with similar needs (i.e. light, water and fertilizer). Also be conscious of growth rates and mature size, so that the containers match the plants’ potential. Finally, consider your desired maintenance. Annuals usually stay under control but need to be replaced seasonally, whereas perennials may need occasional pruning but infrequent replacement.

Potting Soil
There are a variety of potting soils on the market, depending on the type of plant you’re growing; specialty soils are available for cacti and succulents, orchids, and more. The key is to use a potting soil that can absorb and retain moisture, while also allowing water to drain. A general lightweight potting soil with peat moss (for moisture retention) and perlite (for drainage) is suitable for most containers and most plants. If working with very large or very deep containers, substitute some of the potting soil with a light weight filler material, such as Styrofoam™, empty plastic bottles, or lava rocks. In this way, you don’t spend as much in potting soil, the plant roots are not affected, and the container remains light enough to move around, if necessary.

Planting Procedure
Container gardening involves placing plants to determine the desired arrangement, so after filling the container with soil, but before digging, set the plants in their original pots on top of the soil and step back to see the bigger picture. Arrange the plants as many times as necessary to get the look you want, then dig your holes. Similar to planting in the garden, you have to ensure that the hole is large enough and that the plant is not installed too deep or too shallow. However, keep in mind that the finer your potting soil, the more it will settle once watered. The final level of potting soil should be about 2 inches below the rim of the container, and the top-most root of each plant should be level with the surface of the potting soil. If the plants in the container are small and not yet mature, add a layer of mulch on top of the soil to protect the roots and keep the soil from drying out too quickly. As the plants fill in, the soil will be better covered and mulch may not be needed.

Drainage
Although it may seem like common sense, be sure your container has at least one drainage hole. Additionally, make sure that the drainage water has somewhere to go, since water that drains onto a patio or deck may be hazardous and unattractive. If it is not possible to create a drainage hole in a chosen container, then adjust your potting arrangement so that the plants fit into a smaller container (with drainage) that is then placed in the larger container. You will still get the benefit of the container design or style, and your plants will not drown.

Irrigation and Maintenance
Probably the most limiting factor to container gardening is irrigation. Potting soil, because of limited space in a container, may dry out quickly without regular rainfall or supplemental irrigation. It is imperative that you observe your potted plants for signs of wilt and don’t allow them to get to the point of no return. Immediately after planting, the initial watering may quickly run through the soil and out the container’s drainage holebecause of all the pore spaces in the potting mix. Give the soil a few minutes to settle, that water again, slowly, to allow the soil to absorb as much moisture as possible. Most container-grown plants will need watering at least 3 times a week, unlike their counterparts in the landscape, which may go as many as 7 to 10 days in-between watering. It is a good idea to invest in a low volume, micro-irrigation system, specifically designed for potted plants. The system can run directly off an outdoor spigot or hose, and you can place a battery-operated timer on the system for scheduled watering. Keep in mind that plant water requirements will change with season, rainfall, growth stage, and plant size. Other maintenance issues include weeding and pruning. Until young plants fill in to cover the soil in the container, weeds will regularly rear their ugly heads, distracting from the beauty and form of your container garden. Be diligent and hand pull weeds as much as possible, since many herbicides may also injure or kill your desired plants. As some plants grow and fill in, they may not keep their original shape in the container, ultimately changing the overall look you were trying to achieve. Prune selectively, so that you’re not spending inordinate amounts of time creating the “Disney look,” but you’re still shaping plants in a natural form that complement the rest of the container and/or the surrounding landscape design.

Other Tips
Just as you would choose plants for the landscape based on their size relative to the structures around them, it is important to choose containers that are large enough to fit all your desired plants and will not “disappear” into the surrounding environment. Even though larger is better, very large containers may put a significant dent in your pocketbook. For the same impact, create a grouping of containers that are similar in shape, material, or color.

If you tend to lean more toward the eclectic side of life, a hodgepodge of containers may just suit your fancy. By choosing the right plants to create the right effect, a diversity of wild and wacky containers will really make a statement!
 
Use your containers as focal points in the landscape by selectively placing them throughout the yard and designing plant beds and pathways around them. Increase the dramatic effect of a small container by placing it on a pedestal or securing it at eye level against a wall or fence.

Finally, choose plants with brightly colored blooms or foliage for containers in the shade or along a garden border. They will help to define the space, while drawing the eye towards the area in which they are placed. A slightly modified version of a quote from Proverbs says, “Don’t plant more garden than you can care for,” and this is sage advice. But remember that container gardens, if done right, can provide you with color, style, impact and versatility throughout the landscape and throughout the year.

You’re only limited by your own imagination! 

I don't know about you but I've been spying changing landscapes lately around our home. Is the same happening around you? Here are some of the problems I've encountered, let me know if you know of any cures! 

The locals around here seem to be having some disturbing landscaping problems  

Beware! Strangers are lurking in the shadows!

Local wildlife appears to have developed a new lease on life!

New invasives are appearing in our trees! 

I feel like I'm being watched!

Do you think this was a Lazy Gardener? 

Yes, I’m advocating using urine as fertilizer.  

It’s what our forefathers used. It’s what Americans used during the World Wars when fertilizer was in such short supply because its ingredients were needed to make explosives. It’s what people in developing nations, and those attuned to the need to conserve our resources, are using.

I recommend the liquid fertilizer urine for several reasons.
1. Using 13-26 gallons of water to flush less than a pint of urine seems to be a terrible waste of water. Of course, some of my friends in Sun City Center already conserve by using the motto, "If it’s yellow, let it mellow. If it’s brown, flush it down." But that's not as water-wise as what I'm proposing.
2. Gardening costs are less because you’re not buying expensive fertilizers.
3. Urine goes further than other liquid fertilizers.
4. You’re helping to reduce the amount of sewage, resulting in less nutrients in our waterways.
5. Urine is an ideal nutrient for plants.

How much should you apply?

Trees, shrubs and lawn should cope well without dilution. Use undiluted urine on plants that are experiencing a near-death experience. It’s a last resort fertilizer, but it will be effective. (See the testimonial below.)

Dilute urine to 10-to-1 with water for outdoor plants in the growth stage.

Dilute urine to 50-to-1 with water for use on potted plants because they are much more sensitive to fertilizers of any kind.

Do not use urine older than 24 hours on your plants as the urea turns into ammonia and will burn your plants. If it’s not fresh, add it to your compost heap. Adding undiluted human urine to your compost heap will help to heat it up quickly. It is an excellent activator and adds to the final nutrient value.

Do NOT use urine on any food plants two weeks before harvesting.

For plants with fruit, apply under the plant, not directly on foliage. It’s best for all plants to do this, but it’s imperative that the urine does not get on the leaves of plants with fruit.

Some folks worry about the vitamin supplements antibiotics, and other medications they are taking. Studies have shown that they are in such minute quantities that they are negligible — especially when urine is diluted as I’ve recommended.

Still looking for evidence of its worth? How about a lab test?

Carolyn Colwell, in her article for HealthDay, "Human Urine Safe: Productive Fertilizer," October 8, 2007, wrote:

"The researchers chose cabbage as a test crop, because it needs a lot of nitrogen, it is distributed worldwide, and it can be preserved as sauerkraut.

"The cabbage fertilized with urine was compared with similar plots of cabbage that either went unfertilized or where commercial fertilizer was used. At harvest, the cabbage enriched with the urine had several advantages: It was slightly larger, it grew to its maximum size more quickly, and, for most of the growth cycle, it suffered less bug damage than the commercially fertilized variety.

"Cabbage from all three plots was made into sauerkraut and taste-tested by 20 panelists. Each type tasted different, but all were rated "good," the study said.

"As a result of the findings, the team concluded that urine produced by one person over a year would be enough to grow 160 cabbages — that’s 64 kilograms (141 pounds) more cabbage than could be grown in a similar plot fertilized with commercial fertilizer. They recommend collecting urine from eco-type toilets, storing it, then scattering it on the soil around the plants rather than directly on them."

Still need more evidence? How about this unsolicited testimonial from a homeowner in Hillsborough County, FL.  She's water-wise and willing to try whatever will work to save the plants on her lanai.  (All the photos in this article were taken by her of the plants on her lanai.)  She writes:

"It has to be the Vitamins!!!

"I remember you said you saved and used urine for fertilizer.

"So I started watering a couple of scrawny, little plants that were on the edge of dying off. Look at them! (See below.)

"It has to be all the vitamins I take. I’ve never seen anything grow like this, especially around here where all I do is occasionally water them.

"My bay leaf tree I got from my daughter’s tree never did much in the pot, the leaves are dark and get smaller and smaller. I dumped my "Miracles Grow" only a time or two and look at the big green shoot and leaves. Plus only once or twice did I dump some on the ivy on the deck and look at the leaves on top.

"I stopped regular watering of the corn plant and I swear it looks six inches taller. After the third watering with my ‘Miracle Grow’, check out all the new light green leaves on the camellia plant in the corner. Wish I’d thought to take a "before" of the corn plant, it was just sprouting up in the pot. Who would have known this would happen?"

So why not try urine, the liquid fertilizer that is within you?

Our Spring and Fall gardening chores are backwards from other regions of the country. Here in central Florida, fall is the time for soil preparation and planting. Nearly everywhere else, the chores will relate to their final harvest or retiring their plants to the compost heap. So here are 7 tips on fall gardening to help you:-

 
1.  Most Florida soils are sandy and will benefit from applications of various forms of organic matter/fertilizers, such as animal manure, rotted leaves and compost, prior to planting. This will give your plants a good start.

Remember you can have your soil tested at your Local Extension Office.
 
2. If possible follow a planting guide this will prevent you having overcrowding within your garden, which in itself can cause you problems. Ensure that your plantings get at least 6 hours of sunshine per day to facilitate their growth.
 
3. It is essential to follow spacing recommendations seen on your seed packets and to remember to keep ample space when planting, for your spreading vegetables as they grow in your garden.
 
4. Chemical herbicides are not suggested because they may also harm your tender vegetable plants. Visit your garden frequently, looking for insects and disease and consider alternative remedies.

*Consider Reading: Gardening by Exception
 
5. Too much water can cause disease and rot in your plantings. Watering - the frequency of your irrigation will depend on your soil type. Sandy soils need water two or three times a week. You can easily tell if your garden needs water by digging down an inch or two in the soil. If the soil is dry, it's time to water. You can help conserve water in your garden by using mulch and organic matter around your plantings.

*Consider Reading: Waterwise
 
6 Keeping pests and weeds out of your garden is difficult. Weeds compete with your vegetable plants for water, nutrients and growing space. Weeds are much easier to control when they are small, allowing them to achieve the upper hand and Hello… Little Shop of Horrors! Practical weed control is best undertaken by hand pulling, hoeing or mulching.

*Consider Reading: Pay Attention to Symptoms
 
7 You will have fertilized your garden during your soil preparation but you will need to fertilize additionally during the growing season. Always remember to follow the recommended practices on the fertilizer bag.

It's very satisfying to eat a fruit, vegetables or herbs hand picked from your OWN garden, often they have been picked just as you need them. Knowing the hard work and enjoyment that YOU put in to make its growth possible, this makes the taste extra special take it from one who knows!!!