Yes, I’m advocating using urine as fertilizer.  

It’s what our forefathers used. It’s what Americans used during the World Wars when fertilizer was in such short supply because its ingredients were needed to make explosives. It’s what people in developing nations, and those attuned to the need to conserve our resources, are using.

I recommend the liquid fertilizer urine for several reasons.
1. Using 13-26 gallons of water to flush less than a pint of urine seems to be a terrible waste of water. Of course, some of my friends in Sun City Center already conserve by using the motto, "If it’s yellow, let it mellow. If it’s brown, flush it down." But that's not as water-wise as what I'm proposing.
2. Gardening costs are less because you’re not buying expensive fertilizers.
3. Urine goes further than other liquid fertilizers.
4. You’re helping to reduce the amount of sewage, resulting in less nutrients in our waterways.
5. Urine is an ideal nutrient for plants.

How much should you apply?

Trees, shrubs and lawn should cope well without dilution. Use undiluted urine on plants that are experiencing a near-death experience. It’s a last resort fertilizer, but it will be effective. (See the testimonial below.)

Dilute urine to 10-to-1 with water for outdoor plants in the growth stage.

Dilute urine to 50-to-1 with water for use on potted plants because they are much more sensitive to fertilizers of any kind.

Do not use urine older than 24 hours on your plants as the urea turns into ammonia and will burn your plants. If it’s not fresh, add it to your compost heap. Adding undiluted human urine to your compost heap will help to heat it up quickly. It is an excellent activator and adds to the final nutrient value.

Do NOT use urine on any food plants two weeks before harvesting.

For plants with fruit, apply under the plant, not directly on foliage. It’s best for all plants to do this, but it’s imperative that the urine does not get on the leaves of plants with fruit.

Some folks worry about the vitamin supplements antibiotics, and other medications they are taking. Studies have shown that they are in such minute quantities that they are negligible — especially when urine is diluted as I’ve recommended.

Still looking for evidence of its worth? How about a lab test?

Carolyn Colwell, in her article for HealthDay, "Human Urine Safe: Productive Fertilizer," October 8, 2007, wrote:

"The researchers chose cabbage as a test crop, because it needs a lot of nitrogen, it is distributed worldwide, and it can be preserved as sauerkraut.

"The cabbage fertilized with urine was compared with similar plots of cabbage that either went unfertilized or where commercial fertilizer was used. At harvest, the cabbage enriched with the urine had several advantages: It was slightly larger, it grew to its maximum size more quickly, and, for most of the growth cycle, it suffered less bug damage than the commercially fertilized variety.

"Cabbage from all three plots was made into sauerkraut and taste-tested by 20 panelists. Each type tasted different, but all were rated "good," the study said.

"As a result of the findings, the team concluded that urine produced by one person over a year would be enough to grow 160 cabbages — that’s 64 kilograms (141 pounds) more cabbage than could be grown in a similar plot fertilized with commercial fertilizer. They recommend collecting urine from eco-type toilets, storing it, then scattering it on the soil around the plants rather than directly on them."

Still need more evidence? How about this unsolicited testimonial from a homeowner in Hillsborough County, FL.  She's water-wise and willing to try whatever will work to save the plants on her lanai.  (All the photos in this article were taken by her of the plants on her lanai.)  She writes:

"It has to be the Vitamins!!!

"I remember you said you saved and used urine for fertilizer.

"So I started watering a couple of scrawny, little plants that were on the edge of dying off. Look at them! (See below.)

"It has to be all the vitamins I take. I’ve never seen anything grow like this, especially around here where all I do is occasionally water them.

"My bay leaf tree I got from my daughter’s tree never did much in the pot, the leaves are dark and get smaller and smaller. I dumped my "Miracles Grow" only a time or two and look at the big green shoot and leaves. Plus only once or twice did I dump some on the ivy on the deck and look at the leaves on top.

"I stopped regular watering of the corn plant and I swear it looks six inches taller. After the third watering with my ‘Miracle Grow’, check out all the new light green leaves on the camellia plant in the corner. Wish I’d thought to take a "before" of the corn plant, it was just sprouting up in the pot. Who would have known this would happen?"

So why not try urine, the liquid fertilizer that is within you?

On October 14, at 7 PM, Barbara Watson, the Hillsborough County Compost Program Coordinator, will present "Compost Happens" at the SouthShore Regional Library. If you’re looking for a way to improve your garden’s productivity, you have got to try composting. It’s the water-wise way of the future.

This is a MUST-SEE presentation.

According to Cornell University, "Composting is the purposeful biodegradation of organic matter, such as yard and food waste. The decomposition is performed by micro-organisms, mostly bacteria, but also yeasts and fungi." It’s water-wise because it creates more plant-enriching materials than any other method you can use.

As you might expect, composting supports the 9 Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Principles:
1. Right Plant, Right Place
2. Reduce Storm Water Runoff
3. Water Efficiently (Water-wise)
4. Fertilize as needed
5. Control Pests Wisely
6. Protect the Waterfront
7. Provide for Wildlife
8. Recycle
9. Mulch

Ms. Watson will describe why these insects can aid your composting efforts: Roaches, fungi, sowbugs, millipedes, centipedes, spiders, earthworms. While you might not want these in your home, you do want them in your compost pile.

She’ll describe that an effective compost pile must have food, water, air, the right volume and correct particle sizes. It’s those components — in the right combinations — that makes an effective compost pile.

She’ll also describe how you can use compost as an effective soil amendment, mulch, potting mix, and compost tea. You may not be familiar with compost tea, but you will be after she finishes demonstrating what it is and how to use it.

Add this talk to your list of things to do next week. You will not be disappointed.

Considering reading; Reasons to Compost

Sometimes a section of your yard has so many problems that you just need to sterilize the soil.  Soil sterilization can be accomplished in more than one way of course, but most of those ways aren't that natural.  While I'm not completely against dumping loads of poison on a certail spot... Oh wait I AM against dumping loads of poison on a spot to sterilize it!  Seriously what are you thinking!

So what's the alternative?  Solarization.  Soil Solarization is the process of using the sun to heat the soil to a temperature that it kills everything.  Everything includes root knot nematodes, noxious weeds, and even root rot.  Sounds like a miracle treatment right?  It's not that simple.  The truth is that soil sterilization takes a bit more effort than throwing a couple of garbage bags over the "area of interest".  Proper soil sterilization takes 4-6 weeks and requires the soil to be heated to between 110 and 125 degrees for the whole time.  It's best to use a whole sheet of clear polyethylene, not black plastic.  While it may seem that the black plastic would make it hotter, it actually slows down the process.

Soil solarization is the most organic way to sterilize your garden soil, but before you go down that path make sure it's really what you need to do.  It takes some effort and time so you probably want to make sure you've investigated all other avenues before you go down that path.  If you don't do the process right you'll be doing it again and with a 4-6 week turnaround you'll only have a couple of opportunities.  You'd be better off having your soil tested by your local county extension offfice and finding native plants that better grow in that area.

It was a good try but...

If you are interested in more information about soil solarization the following two sites have some good information.  The first is easier to read and the second is extremely technical (for those really interested in all the facts!).

http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/12.8.html

http://www.waynesthisandthat.com/solarization.htm

What is Composting?

Composting is the biological decomposition of organic wastes by bacteria, fungi, worms and other organisms under controlled conditions where oxygen is available.

3 Reasons to Compost
 
1 - Compost is a wonderful soil additive, especially to Florida's poor, sandy soils. Finished compost is mostly humus, which, when added to soil, makes it more moisture retentive, offers a bounty of food for soil improving microorganisms, and improves soil texture by creating spaces for air, water, and nutrients to circulate. Finished compost is nearly neutral in pH, and helps to stabilize the balance of acidity and alkalinity of the soil when added to it.
 
2 - Compost improves the disease resistance of garden plants because some of the organisms that break down plant material into compost produce natural antibiotics. Its disease-fighting ability also discourages the growth of soil borne fungal diseases. Compost also, is more nutrient dense than raw animal manure, and gives longer-lasting results than synthetic fertilizers thereby being cost effective for you as a gardener.
 
3 - Be environmentally friendly, up to 75% of materials seen in landfills could be recycled, if you began composting you would aid in reducing the planet’s waste and the cost of the resources used in disposal.

Home Compost Bin

 
Do you want to know more about Composting:-

Attend either or both of these Master Gardener Presentations:-
 
Compost Happens - Wednesday October 14th at 7pm
SouthShore Library 15816, Beth Shields Way, Ruskin, FL 33573

At the Talk above you will be given a redeemable voucher so that you can obtain a compost bin FREE (complete with thermometer) similar to the one above from Hillsborough Extension Service in Seffner, FL

So, mark you calendar and make it a date! Then you too can start Composting!
 
Another type of composting is Vermicomposting (with worms) to learn more you can attend:-

Vermicomposting - Tuesday October 20th at 6.30pm
Riverview Library 10509, Riverview Dr, Riverview FL 33569

You have read that I believe that mulch — spread correctly — can be of great benefit to your garden. Also you’ve read that I recommend buying it at your local Resource Recycle Center. GardenersReach.com is loaded with tips and tricks for more effectively using mulch.

But how would you like to get mulch for free?

Have you ever noticed those tree trimmer trucks in the neighborhood?

While you can dump your yard waste (trimmings, leaves, etc.), they have to pay to dump theirs. So it’s to their benefit not to have to stop their work, drive to the Resource Recycle Center, dump the contents and drive back.

In most cases, all you have to do is ask and they’ll gladly dump it into your yard.

Some tips:

1. Do not pay. If they want money to do it, let them know that you’re doing them a favor as well as gaining mulch. You can calculate how long a round-trip that would be for them by looking at the directions and maps to the Resource Recycle Centers.

2. Place a large tarp (or two) down where you want the mulch dumped. Usually they’ll only dump it in your driveway or close to it — and it must be accessible from the street as they’ll be dumping it from a dump truck. That way, as you begin to remove the mulch, you’ll be able to drag the smaller load closer to your work area.

3. Use a rock rake — not a shovel — to spread the mulch. Digging mulch is like shoveling sand with a spoon. It can be done, but why would you do it?

4. Make sure the mulch is compatible with the area into which you’re going to spread it. If they dump pine mulch, it’s going to have a lot of alkaline in it. That might not be what you want if you’ve got gardenias in it.

5. Be alert for opportunities to save money and gain mulch at the same time. Now that you know to look, you’ll be surprised at how often mulching takes place near where you live.

In Central Florida we basically have sand as our soil. And because of that, and the fact that we have very little organic matter in our soil, we must fertilize to have a lush garden and lawn.

I recommend a good fertilizer schedule 3 times a year using a good balanced blend of 10 - 0 - 10. (If you live in Central Florida our soil is off the charts in Phosphorus. We have many open Phosphate mines (run by Mosaic) and because of that we do not need to put any back into our yards. All the New Florida Blend Fertilizers are now being very environmentally friendly and omitting it entirely - and this is a good thing).

I recommend fertilizing your yard in the Spring (March), once in the summer (June) and in the fall (November). I recommend using less more often, than using a lot twice a year. The other important factor we have to take into account during the summer are the constant rains. These rains wash away our fertilizers, which means by late July, early August our gardens and lawns tend to turn a little yellow. So, do we put down another application of fertilizer? I say no, unless you want to mow your lawn three times a week. In lieu of a nitrogen based fertilizer I recommend Ironite. This product is found in granular or liquid forms and quickly greens up your scrubs, trees and lawns without making them grow like they are on steroids. I recommend the granular because it has more residual coverage than the liquid.

Ironite can be bought at all the Box Stores for around $15.00 a bag.

By using Ironite we are accomplishing the task we want, "to green up our yards" and not adding more nitrogen to our environment which can lead to pollution problems or causing ourselves the additional work of mowing more than once a week.

Every now and then, mushrooms — those toadstools from fairy tales — will appear in your lawn and in your mulch.

Questions quickly arise. What are they? Are they harmful? What do I do about them? Read on, and I’ll answer these questions and more.

Lawn mushrooms are fungi that feed on decomposing grass clippings. Sometimes mulch that is too wet for periods of time can also host a crop of these de-composers.

Fungi is a scientific word for non-green plants (including yeast, molds, smuts, mushrooms, and toadstools) that lack chlorophyll and feed on organic matter. (Chlorophyll is the green pigment in most plants, but you’ll have to Google to learn more about that. After all, I’m talking about mushrooms; not firebushes.)

Mushrooms rarely cause landscape problems. To some, who don’t understand their place in the grander scheme of nature’s ‘circle of life’, they are unsightly; but, you should welcome their brief life cycle.

The most common lawn mushroom is the green-gilled Lepiota. Also known as the Parasol or Fairy ring mushroom, they are large whitish mushrooms (4-5 inches across the cap) with reddish-tan scales on the cap.

The center of the cap will have dense scales, which become sparser toward the edge. The stem is 3-5 inches long, with a ring around it near the top.

The ring is easy to move up and down the stalk, and the cap breaks easily from the stem.

If the color of the spore print is a light grayish-green, chances are good those local lawn mushrooms are the poisonous fairy ring mushrooms.

Do not eat lawn mushrooms or you will be sick with vomiting and diarrhea for three days. I don’t know of any humans dying from eating them — although I suspect more than one wished he had.

Pets which eat these mushrooms can die, so keep your pups away from them.

The ‘rule of thumb’ is that if you don’t buy a mushroom in a reputable grocery store, don’t eat it.

As to what to do with them, leave them alone. As soon as the organic material has been consumed, the mushrooms disappear. If you mow them, and the organic material is still in the landscape, new mushrooms will take their place. (Ain’t nature grand?)

The good news is that they have performed another valuable service in your landscape — like most plants and animals will, IF you’ll give them the chance.

Remember that if you don’t let nature take care of your problems, you’ll have to do it. That means buying one more product to get lost in your garage, making the time to read the label, making time to apply it correctly, and waiting for the product to do — or not do — its job. Surely, you’ve got better uses for your time.

We use recycled mulch throughout our landscape, except for one place.

Examine your yard, find where real mulch is needed and where synthetic can do the job better. Keep in mind that each serves a specific purpose, and each offers benefits.

We believe in ‘yard waste’ mulch which is created by recycling leaves and limbs removed from landscapes in Hillsborough County, Florida. 

At the Resource/Recycle Centers in our county, the mulch is divided into softwood, hardwood and mixed.  We have used hardwood mulch for 15 years and found it to be excellent.  It costs $5 more for a pickup bed full, but since softwood mulch must be reinforced every year and hardwood mulch can last 2-3 years, the hardwood mulch is the bettetr buy.  We use it wherever we want plants to grow and to prosper.

However there is an area that goes from our front door, along the garage wall, to the driveway where we use synthetic mulch. That is also the lane where the drain from our indoor plumbing runs and which gets heave runoff from our roof when it rains.

Originally we had a ficus tree growing nearby, but the prolific roots from it began to reach inside that drain and clog it. So we removed the purple passionvine and its supporting mulch that was along that walkway.  We did that because the combination of those two would have created a rich, dark soil that any tree within 100 yards would aim straight for it.

Then we placed synthetic mulch in that area (photos).

Synthetic mulch is mostly made from recycled tires.  It comes in a variety of colors, but its biggest advantage is that it is heavy and will not normally float away even in the heaviest of central Florida rains.

I recommend using synthetic mulch in places where you do not want either turf grass or plants to grow. The example above would be one of those places. Other places would be heavy traffic areas such as paths or where you’ve placed a swing (photos) or play areas for kids.

Look for mulch that is natural looking and won’t stain. The black synthetic mulch that is marketed looks unnatural and some versions will stain clothes. You are better served by buying a brown, more natural looking synthetic mulch.

Spread it as you would natural mulch — ensuring three inches depth. Work to ensure that the mulched area will retain the mulch so that it does not spread to other areas as you walk through or play in it.

Natural, yard waste mulch is the best mulch you can obtain and use, but there is are places where only synthetic mulch will work.  Don’t hesitate to do use it.

Of all the mulches on the market, the best that I have found is mulch made from yard waste.

According to the Horticultural Department of the Hillsborough County Extension, this kind of mulch has 9 benefits. I have added a tenth.

1. It is mixed species mulch. It’s gathered by road crews renovating the highways’ landscape or by home owners cleaning their yards.

2. Minimal settling over time. Once delivered to a Resource Recycle Center, the mulch is continually turned over by a front-end loader. This removes pathogens because new parts of the yard waste piles are receiving the Florida sun’s burning rays every time.

3. Color and size may vary. Whereas commercial mulch seldom varies in color or size, yard mulch varies greatly. This is a good thing because you gain coverage that blends and contrasts, adding colors that compliment the natural colors already in your landscape.

4. Free source of mulch. If you recycle, within your own landscape, the mulch you gain is free of cost — other than your own sweat.

5. Create "self-mulching" areas under trees. Don’t rake away the leaves that fall from your plants and trees, allow them to be added to the mulch you already have.

6. Minimal settling over time Cypress. Cypress mulch, more than others, settle over time. What you believe is 3 inches in depth, quickly becomes 2 inches in depth.

7. Sold as "blends" mixed with other hardwoods. At the resource-recycle centers, mulches are gathered in two piles: Soft wood and hard wood.

8. Produced from whole trees. The best part of most yard waste mulch is that it’s created from whole trees. That means that every part of the tree has been recycled.

9. No decay or insect resistance. One of the challenges of yard waste mulch is that it will decay and it is prone to insects. However, remember that less than one-tenth of one-percent of the insects in Florida as pests. The rest serve a worthwhile — and necessary — purpose in your garden and landscape.

10. It costs less. There is no less expensive mulch than yard waste. It is sold at the resource recycle centers by either the truck load or in bags. Visit one of the centers, and a front-end loader will fill the bed of your pickup truck over the top of the truck’s cab. Of course, you can buy yard waste by the bag as well.

We’ve been using yard waste from the South County Transfer Station for almost 15 years. The result are gardens with rich soil; appealing multicolored mulch; and healthy well-maintained plants.

Click on the logo below, and you’ll find directions and maps to the three Hillsborough County resource and recycle centers.

According to the Hillsborough Extension Service’s "Mulches for the Landscape," there are seven keys to successful mulching. We have been using those techniques for over a decade, and can testify that they work.

When mulching remember seven things:

1. Mulch entire landscape beds. Mulching only a part of a garden will deprive the un-mulched portion of the benefits of mulching. In time, mulch degrades into compost creating a darker, richer soil.

2. Wood and bark mulches should be 3 inches deep after settling. When we mulch, we spread it to a 4-inch depth. That way, when it settles, we are guaranteed at least 3 inches throughout the garden. This will offer even non-drought-tolerant plants a source of moisture.

3. Mulch newly set plants after they are planted and watered. To plant new plants, we pull back the mulch, dig the hole, water it, insert the plant, cover it, and water it again. We always ensure the plant is positioned with the space from other plants at the width it will attain at full growth; not the size it is when planted. Remember when you plant that the plant’s weight and gravity will cause it to sink somewhat, so plant its base a little higher than you want it to be.

4. Pull mulch two inches away from plants’ trunks/stems to prevent rotting. Having mulch against the trunk of a tree or stem of a plant causes too much moisture at that point, inviting fungus and microbes to attack and resulting in rotting.

5. Re-apply mulch around established plants as needed to maintain 3-inch depth. Over time, mulch settles. Check your mulch periodically. That 3-inch depth is what makes the soil richer over time.

6. When mulching a tree, create a 2-foot diameter circle of mulch for every inch of trunk diameter.

7. Pull mulch one-foot from exterior walls to discourage termites. Otherwise, you will provide a natural gateway into that home for subterranean termites.

Mulch, when properly applied, provides great benefits to your landscape and to your gardens. Follow these steps and you’ll be graced with beauty, bountiful harvests and growth with reduced maintenance.