A short video of some of the amazing butterflies you can see at the Butterfly Rainforest in Gainseville, FL.

Duval Street in Key West is famous for its bars, nightclubs, live music, and bustling shops. At the southern end is a peaceful sanctuary.  The Key West Butterfly Conservatory & Nature Center is home to 1500- 2000 living butterflies, as well as birds, turtles, koi, and a butterfly art gallery.  Nineteen years ago, the conservatory was created by Sam Trophia and George Fernandez.  When Sam was 15, he started crafting artwork from butterflies.

Key West Butterfly Conservatory

Brilliantly colorful butterfly-friendly tropical plants like pentas, crotons, jatropha, powderpuff plants, hibiscus, ginger, and Ti plants fill the conservatory.  Metal butterfly benches, a gazebo, and a pond all lend to the tranquil space.  The butterflies, in all of their vibrant colors, flutter from tree to flower, perch on the fruit, and sunbathe in the windows.
 
The butterflies at the conservatory feed mainly on rotting fruit, vegetables, and nectar from the flowers. During my mid-afternoon visit, the butterflies were actively flying around.  Explained Sam, “Butterflies are diurnal and are most active during the daytime when more sunlight is available.”  The conservatory’s butterflies are ordered from all over the world, including the Philipines, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Africa, and Indonesia, and arrive at the conservatory in the pupae stage.  The art gallery orders butterflies from dead stock to be preserved, arranged, mounted, and framed in plexiglas cases.

Butterflies have four distinct life stages.  Butterfly eggs are typically laid on plants, and they remain as eggs for 4-6 days on average before becoming larvae, or caterpillars.  Caterpillars mature through a series of stages, in which they continually shed their outer skin to accommodate their rapidly growing size. The caterpillar hangs down on a silk thread from a leaf stem.  Then it sheds its skin for the last time to make a pupa or chrysalis.  In this stage that lasts approximately 10 days, the caterpillar changes into a butterfly within the chrysalis.  The chrysalis splits and the adult butterfly emerges.  During this phase, adult butterflies undergo courtship, mating, and egg-laying.  The average lifespan of most adult butterflies is only 10-14 days, though some species hibernate during the winter and may live several months.

So the average butterfly has spent roughly 5 days as an egg, 2-3 weeks as a caterpillar, 10 days being transformed within a chrysalis, and only 10-14 days flying as a beautiful adult butterfly.  Their wings and bodies are composed of breathtakingly beautiful colors as they flutter quickly, pause to land, then open to flutter away again.  While watching these amazing creatures fly, I realized that like these butterflies, our days are also numbered.  In the time we have each been given, we must take hold of every moment of life and breath that we have.  During our struggles, may we be transformed into something greater, stronger, and more beautiful.  May we add to the splendor and grace in this world with the gifts we are each given.

Blue Morpho Butterfly

For more information on the Key West Butterfly Conservatory & Nature Center, see http://www.keywestbutterfly.com. The conservatory is located at 1316 Duval Street, Key West, FL 33040.

The milkweed plant is an important source of nectar for the many nectar seeking insects in our gardens. It is also a larval food source for many other insects, including the Monarch Butterfly and thus plays an important role in our butterfly gardens.

Monarch Butterfly on my Tropical Milkweed earlier this year

Whilst surfing the net the other day, I came across this U-Tube video seen below. Tony who presents it is an entomologist, here he discusses the milkweed plant and shares many other interesting facts with us. The video also highlights many of the insects seen on the milkweed as you see them and they are indentified here; I hope that in future you will be easily able to identify them should you see them on plants in your garden. 

 Tropical Milkweed

There are over 140 Milkweed which is a genus of herbaceous perennial, dicotyledonous plants. the most frequently seen here in Florida is the Asclepias curassavica or Tropical Milkweed. Here at GardenersReach.com we have a couple of other posts about the Milkweed you should consider reading Milkweed Seed Bugs and Aphids on My Butterfly Milkweed

In the video, Tony mentions that in World War II, the schoolchildren across the Midwest collected thousands of pounds of milkweed fluff to stuff life preservers for the armed forces in the Pacific.  The reason, kapok which was normally used for this purpose was unavailable due to the Japanese occupation in Indonesia.

Milkweed Seed Fluff 

Tony also mentions that milkweed is a common folk remedy used for removing warts. The milkweed sap is said to be used topically directly to the wart several times daily until the wart falls off.

It is my understanding that dandelion sap is often used in the same way, however as with Tony I have never had a wart and cannot vouch for the authenticity of the information!

After living in Florida for a few years, I planted some Canna Lilies in my yard. I had always loved them, with their tall upright stems, big green, bronze and multi-colored leaves and colorful flowers in reds, yellows and oranges. But soon, after they had grown a few feet tall, I noticed that something was eating my leaves. I asked my good friend JoAnn what I should do and she gave me the greatest answer I’ve ever heard, "She told me to do nothing." She knew that I loved butterfly gardening, but she also knew that I did not know that the caterpillar eating all my Canna Lilies was the larvae of the "Skipper Butterfly." It’s an adorable little guy (1 — ½ inches long) that looks more like an iridescent moth, than a butterfly. Additionally, she told me to, "Plant more Canna Lilies so there would be plenty for larval food for the Skippers and plenty to grow and bloom for me." Wasn’t that just the greatest answer in the world.

Since then I have just fallen in love with the Canna Lily and have several varieties growing in my yard.

Canna Lilies look a lot like bananas and ginger, and the reason is because they are in fact kin to those plants. Most of the literature that I have read says they like moist, enriched soil with organic matter. But by now you know I do not irrigate and I would never call sand — enriched soil — and I never amend my soil. And they grow just fine for me. They like full sun, but will take partial shade. I grow mine in full sun and let Mother Nature take care of their watering.

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In the Spring I cut mine back to the ground. They grow by rhizome, and if I want to propagate them by division of the rhizome I do it at this time. The rhizomes need to be planted 2 inches deep and about a foot apart. I fertilize 3 times a year, but some publications say you can even fertilize them more (I never do).

Most cultivars love water, or a bog condition. So if you have a low, wet area, this is a perfect plant for you. They also grow great in a pond.

They come in dwarf cultivars to plants which grow to over 8 feet tall. They are best planted in large, mass plantings. The Canna flaccida is a native yellow canna found in Florida wetland.

Canna Lilies have two problems, the leaf roller caterpillars (which we have talked about earlier) and rust. Since I consider mine to be a Butterfly Plant I use no chemicals on them. If you are not growing them for larval food, you can use some copper fungicide (as directed on label) on them. It seems like to much work and I would not bother. Just cut off the affected leaves.

They can be bought in all Big Box Stores, local nurseries, Pond Stores and on-line and are not expensive.

For further information go to: 

http://www.floridata.com/ref/C/cann_fla.cfm

http://www.floridata.com/ref/C/cann_xge.cfm

(Photo: Canna Lilies by Pond)

(Photo: Canna Lily Flower)

(Photo: Canna Lilies in Pond)

Several years ago I was at a plant swap and I overhead a group of "experienced Gardeners" talking about the plants up for "swap." One of the gals raised her voice and said, "I can’t believe so and so brought that Porterweed. That is such a trash plant, a real weed, and it would be better off in the trash." Well luckily, it was not one of my plants (although at that "swap" I had thought of bringing one), and if I do say so myself it was a very nice specimen. Since that day I have looked upon my Porterweeds differently. I just adore the plant because, "a weed by any other name, is just a plant in the wrong place." Additionally, any plant that, "grows like a weed" is a plant I want in my yard. And finally, the plant reseeds itself and comes up without any prompting, giving me lots of free trading plants. If it does grow somewhere I do not want it, I just pull it up, or mow it down. Some articles I’ve read say some cultivars are "invasive." I’ve never had that problem.

The most prolific Porterweed is the blue. It is a nectar plant and attracts butterflies and bees. There is also a smaller native Porterweed that can be obtained at some native nurseries. It’s a perennial shrub that becomes woody toward the base. The plant also comes with flowers that are pink, red, purple and coral. The blue form is the largest and can get up to 4 to 5 feet tall and as wide. It likes full sun, to light shade. Once established it is very drought tolerant. I fertilize this plant as I do the rest of my yard, 2 to 3 times a year.

In the Spring it requires a good pruning. I usually prune mine back to about a foot to 18 inches.

It can be propagated by cuttings (very easily - I use a little rooting hormone in a good potting mix) and seeds. To harvest your own seeds, once the flowers have dropped off, and the flower spikes are dry, cut the spike off and holding over a white paper towel, tap it. The seeds will fall onto the white paper towel and be easily visible. Place them in little zip lock baggies. Be sure and label the seeds. (I have seeds all over my home, in little baggies with no names on them - Do as I say, not as I do. Ha Ha!)  

(Photo: Porterweed)

(Photo: Porterweed Flower)

On returning from my morning walk with Georgia (my dog), we both became mesmerized by the dances that the butterflies were performing in our front flower beds. The Black Swallowtails were busiest as they landed on the pink flowers of the pentsas, unfurled and inserted their proboscis and sucked up the nectar from the flower before flying onto the next. I hope you enjoy my photographs below, I managed to grab my camera and snap a couple of shots before they flew on.

Pentas are a very popular plant in butterfly gardens, that’s why I planted them last year when I set up my garden. Pentas are nectar plants for both the butterflies and the humming birds.

Pentas are tropical perennials and offer flower and foliage color throughout summer and into the fall. They are often used as border plants or as accent plantings and with several colors pink; lavender; white and purple they can provide a striking effect in your garden.

They can be planted from March through August here in our zone 9. But if you’re like me, they’ll be planted in the spring when it’s cooler to dig! Pentas can be planted in full sun to part shade, here at our house I’ve found that they enjoy at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. They can grow to 2-3 feet in height with 2-3 feet spread, so remember to leave space when planting, or learn the hard way like I did and have to move a few!

Following planting, the pentas should be watered initially till established then as needed making them drought tolerant. Plants fertilized regularly during the growing season will continue to grow and bloom all through the warm months.

The pentas will grow year round in central and south Florida but they should be covered if a freeze is imminent to protect them.

Dancing Butterflies

For more info:-

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FP465

Still looking for a way to involve your children or grandchildren in your garden? Here’s a way that might interest you.

Have them watch for the over-population of one plant.  This photo is of an over-populated passionvine in our front yard.

One of our passionvines (see below) has a tendency to be over-whelmed by Gulf Fritillary and Zebra Longwing caterpillars. So I check it and our other passionvines daily.

In the same way, ask your children or grandchildren to check your host larval plants.

If they find that one has way more caterpillars than others, show them how to gently remove the caterpillars and allow them to crawl off of their hand onto another plant. (The less one handles a caterpillar, the better.)

Do not remove caterpillars from walls or nearby tree trunks as they are most likely moving to form a chrysalis.

The chrysalis is the third of the four distinctive live stages of a butterfly. This is the stage that turns the caterpillar into a healthy, beautiful butterfly. The chrysalis is a dull brown or green color to blend in with its surrounding; it is its camouflage.

By spreading out your caterpillars, you aid them by allowing the plant to have time to recover and to grow. Although the plant will recover without your intervention, it will grow much more quickly with aid.

Also when the tips of a vine are decimated, cut them off — don’t rip it.  This is called pruning.  This allows the plant to use the energy it would expend on healing that tip to grow other branches. Be sure to wipe your shears with alcohol between trimming this bush and any others. That way, you prevent the spread of diseases.

I do not recommend allowing children to prune bushes. First of all, clippers can be dangerous and, secondly, children tend to become fascinated with pruning and trim too much from plants.  Over-pruning plants is not healthy.

Remember that you are the gardener. Joseph Joubert wrote, "All gardeners live in beautiful places because they make them so."

Let your caterpillars become healthy butterflies by enlisting your children and grandchildren in the hunt to help.

Once you’ve populated your garden with butterfly larval host and nectar plants, your job is done. Without much effort from you, nature has ways of helping our winged wonders remain healthy and well-fed. However, your children can help.

Nurseries display a lot of various plants to attract butterflies, but don’t forget that these fragile creatures need protection from the elements as well. When creating your butterfly garden, don’t forget shelter plants.

Shelter plants provide protection from wind, rain, predators, and temperature extremes. Used as borders, they are unobtrusive to viewing the garden, but offer quick shelter in the event of inclement weather.

Shrubs and small trees are best. Choosing plants that have different heights and growth habits offer vertical as well as horizontal beauty to your garden.

When buying shelter plants, keep in mind the goal of the plant is to protect so it must be dense enough to protect, but sparse enough that the butterflies can gain entry. I like using the firebush because it serves as both a nectar plant and protection from the elements.

Study each plant’s basic water, light, and soil requirements so it will perform and grow to its maximum potential. Select plants that will blend with and complement your butterfly garden.

According to the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences’ "Butterfly Garden Basics," these plants can serve as both host plants and shelters:

To attract the Giant Swallowtail, Papilio cresphontes
Hercules’-Club, Zanthozylum clava-hercules
Wild Lime, Zanthoxylum fagara
Common Rue, Ruta graveolens
Orange, Lemon and Grapefruit, Citrus spp.

To attract the Tiger Swallowtail, Papilio glaucus
Black Cherry, Prunus serotina
Chokecherry, Prunus virginiana
Sweet Bay, Magnolia virginiana
Tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera
Ash, Fraxinus spp.

To attract the Pipevine Swallowtail, Battus philenor
Virginia Snakeroot, Aristolochia virginiana
Wooly Pipevine, Aristolochia tomentosa
Dutchman’s Pipe, Aristolochia macrophylla
Other pipevines, Aristolochia spp.

The University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences has published a new booklet, "Butterfly Watching Basics." Among other things, it lists some thought-provoking tips for successful viewing.

Here are just some of them:

Keep your eyes on the prize. Once you spot a butterfly, keep your eyes on it as you approach. If you must look away, note a prominent landmark near the butterfly so you can more quickly find it again.

Approach slowly and cautiously. Butterflies have good eyesight and will flee at the slightest provocation. They don’t survive if they don’t stay alert.

Approach from a low angle. Butterflies know that most potential predators will attack from above them. Stay low and move slowly.

Watch out for your shadow. Butterflies are attuned to light and to shadows. Quick changes in light signals danger and scare butterflies away from it.

Take advantage of opportunities. Butterflies are easier to see when they are feeding at flowers, laying eggs or drinking water from a mud puddle. If you sit near host and larval plants, you’ve got a better chance of them coming closer to you and remaining long enough to get that perfect photo.

Make the time to observe butterflies; but, more importantly, learn from them. They are not stagnant, they are forever on the move looking for new opportunities and lessons from living. Thus, it should be in your life.

A Florida-friendly yard does not have pesticides in it.  Mother Nature has designed a perfect environment wherein for each pest there is a predator. (Remember that less than ½ of 1% of all insects are pests.)

Attracting and maintaining a butterfly population is rather easy if you remember three basic rules:
1 — No pesticides.
2 — Buy both larval host & nectar plants.
3 — Do not kill caterpillars.

So no pesticides. Nature never needed man-made pesticides in the landscape and neither does its gardener.  (For more on this, see PegEgg's "Aphids on my Butterfly Milkweed" article, below.)

Secondly, buy both larval host and nectar plants.

Host plants are those upon which the butterfly feeds. Larval plants are fed upon by the caterpillar. It will do little good to have one without the other.

Plant them in groupings which contain both types of plants. Thus, the attracted butterfly will not have to travel far to lay her eggs.

Finally, do not kill the caterpillars. Children and husbands are the two most dangerous weapons let loose around caterpillars. Sometimes, they can be like unguided missiles. So make them a part of the wonderment of butterflies.

Challenge each of them to be the first to spot a new caterpillar every day they visit the garden.  This will get them to visit the garden more often, and keep them from killing the caterpillars.

Just three basic rules, and you’re well on your way to a successful, thriving butterfly garden.

What are you waiting for?